Large Scale Downunder Forum


Author Topic:  scz  (Read 3947 times)

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Offline Dalbe

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Re: scz
« Reply #25 on: February 28, 2015, 12:18:38 PM »
Hey Jason the one thing I did have to do is run a Rooster Manifold to stop the heat transfer from the Engine it was getting way to hot and stopping.

Offline kimsbored

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Re: scz
« Reply #26 on: June 09, 2015, 03:27:05 PM »
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Only new to this as well but I had a 30.5 rovan and pipe in my 5t and I changed to the SCZ and I am really happy with how it pulls goes a lot harder than the 30. 9 Hp not sure but for the money happy with it so far.

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cheers dalbe.. keep me updated mate

Offline Newkidbaja

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Re: scz
« Reply #27 on: August 18, 2015, 02:52:30 AM »
yep

Offline puppeli

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Re: scz
« Reply #28 on: September 07, 2019, 09:54:16 PM »
Few years have past and no complaints. It delivers what it promises. And yes claimed 9hp and 21400rpm is on the mark under load. If not you are running 990 or 1107 that are too small for the engine. 1048 or Tillotson that I have are perfect and the power is there. Lets not forget that this is upgraded BZM Micro with better cooling and better finish and quality. Reports of in blown crankcase gaskets happen only if you soak the car and engine in wet or washing it. Paper and water don't mix on any engine and less on high power engines. Copper gasket cement is great for this to have extra reliability sealing the paper. Problem solved. And yes this problem only is mentioned by those that have no idea. Other possible fail is with the reed block. 3nm only on torque when you build it. Tighter and you risk warping the block and getting an air leak. It is all in the know. On the KM or 30'N truck 21/56 is great gearing. You can go longer but for tracks it might be too long. BZM Micro is a great pipe. One of the best value and most reliable engines.